Carnival In Mexico

 

Carnival is celebrated throughout the world during the week prior to Ash Wednesday and since Mexico is a largely Catholic country it’s a pretty big deal here. However, celebrations vary radically depending on your location. For example, Patzcuaro is a major destination for tourists wanting to experience Day of the Dead, but Carnival is almost completely overlooked there. For the last week my neighbourhood here in San Miguel has been alive with cohetes and noise makers, New Year’s Eve revisited. The cities with the largest and most elaborate celebrations are Vera Cruz and Mazatlan, but not to be outdone, San Miguel de Allende makes a pretty good effort to compete.

 

Mojigangas, Giant Paper Mache Figures

 

These celebrations are a festival of the libido meant to get all the debauchery out of people's systems before the abstinence of Lent begins. The word Carnival actually comes from Latin, meaning “to take away” or “goodbye to meat”, and many devout Catholics will refrain from eating meat for the upcoming 40 days of Lent.

The events usually begin with the Quema del Mal Humor or The Burning of Bad Humor which is the burning in effigy of an unpopular political figure, or in some places a Satanic figure. After this the King and Queen of Carnival are crowned, beginning a week long string of festivities.There is music, food, dancing and, of course, parades and fireworks. Mojigangas, huge paper mache figures, put in an appearance in many parades here, but none are quite as festive, and often risqué, as those used in the Carnival parades.

El Jardin, San Miguel’s main plaza, is alive with colour during this time. The vendors sell all the trappings of Carnival and the kids chase bubbles and strew colourful confetti among the benches and trees. Prior to Carnival the mercados fill with eggs, emptied of their gloppy innards and filled with confetti, and during Carnival Week children throughout the city lob these at each other, leaving a trail of confetti on their clothes, in their hair and on the streets.

 

 Bubbles in El Jardin

 

The celebrations culminate on the "Martes de Carnaval", or Mardi Gras, the French term meaning Fat Tuesday. One last blow-out party ending with the burning of another effigy, “Juan Carnaval”, which is representative of all the indulgence and carnal revelry of the past week. This act puts an end to the wantonness of Carnival and begins the abstinence of Lent. The following morning is Ash Wednesday, when the people of San Miguel will go to church and receive ashes, after which Lent will begin.