A Gallery of Graffiti

 

 

There is Graffiti…..

 

Several months ago as I was driving into town for something, I noticed a young man painting on a wall in our neighbourhood. I didn’t holler out the window at him, to “stop that”, I didn’t call the police and I didn’t even just drive away and ignore him. I stopped to watch.

 

And Then There is Graffiti

 

He was painting the “graffiti” in the photo above. Amazingly it is still there, untouched. The other more traditional graffiti artists have left it unsullied. Actually it turns out that this fellow is not only talented but quite prolific. His work is starting to pop up all over the neighbourhood.

 

Black Beauty

 

The horse in the photo above appeared a couple of months after the first painting, just around the corner from our house. I love it. You can see the cement on the wall around the horse. This is where other, more traditional graffiti, had been covered up. The city is actually pretty good about coming out and painting, or cementing, over regular graffiti but unfortunately it is usually back within a few days. Not here though. It seems that this new artist commands a certain amount of respect.

 

El Lagarto Verde

 

The next to arrive was this beautiful green lagarto, lizard. He looks like he is about to jump off the wall!

 

 

The newest additions joined the neighbourhood about two weeks ago. Just a couple of blocks from out house, alongside the arroyo, a brick arch straddles the road. On the far side the lizard stands guard, while on this side, the flower lady releases birds on one side  of the road and a Catrina, burdened with bird cages, graces the other.

 

 

I think that this is such a wonderful mode of self-expression. I hope that I will have the opportunity to meet the artist again so that I can thank him for brightening up our neighbourhood.

Many of our local graffiti artists are capable of this kind of street art. We discovered this last December when a gigantic Christmas tree was erected in El Jardin, our main town plaza. Under the tree were huge boxes, representing Christmas presents, painted by some our local street talent. It was all done with spray cans and was really quite impressive.

 

Christmas Graffiti

 

 

This latest painting, in the above photo, has only been there a couple of days. It is around the corner from the original paintings and I don’t know if it is the same artist or not. There is a definite difference in the style of this painting from the others.

We clearly have some artistic talent here in San Miguel. If more of it could be focused on enhancing public property rather than defacing it, our beautiful city could be more beautiful still.

 

 

The Birth of a Volcano

 

Imagine for a moment that you are a farmer, and your farm is far from civilization in the mountains of central Mexico, outside a little village called Parícutin. It is February 20th, 1943. It is a day like any other day and you and your wife are in the cornfield burning shrubbery. The weather is comfortably warm and the sky is clear, so it is with some surprise that you hear what you assume is the rumbling of thunder.

Now, though, you can also feel the ground shaking a little under your feet and you realize that the sound is coming from beneath the cornfield. Smoke begins to rise from across the field, having no relation to the burning shrubbery. You both stop to watch as the ground beneath the column of smoke begins to rise up. The ground is shaking more violently now and the rumblings are ear-shattering.

 

Photo by Wikipedia

 

This is what happened to P'urhépecha farmer, Dionisio Pulido and his wife Paula, in their cornfield 70 years ago today. In just one week the volcano reached a height of five stories. During the first year the volcano remained in it’s pyroclastic, or explosive, phase and the nearby villages of Parícutin and San Juan Parangaricutiro were buried in lava and ash.

 

 

Photo of the 1943 eruption from Wikipedia

 

By the end of 1943 the volcano had risen to a height of 336 meters (1,102 feet) and during the next 8 years continued to spew lava from smaller eruptions until it had seared the land around it for 25 square kilometers (9.7 square miles). The violence of the eruptions continued to decline until the last 6 months of 1951 when the volcano had it’s last hurrah before going quiet in 1952. It now stands 424 meters (1,391 feet) above Dionisio’s cornfield, casting a shadow over miles of volcanic rock and devastation.

 

Parícutin as it looks today

 

As with most small towns in Mexico the center of the village of Paricutin was it’s church. When the village succumbed to the might of the volcano the church was buried along with everything else, but it still holds it’s spire high above the volcanic rock as a reminder of what came before. Today you can visit the site and climb among the rocks peeking into what can still be seen above the lava line.

 

Parícutin Church Spire

 

As you drive into the town of Angahuan, not far from the site of the buried church of Parícutin, it is likely that you will be immediately surrounded by men on horseback. The renting of horses for the trek to the site of the buried town is one of the main methods of making a living here and the competition is stiff! On one of our visits we wanted to look around town a little before entering into negotiations with the caballeros and when we managed drive free of the fray, were chased (by men on horseback) for blocks before parking the car and once again becoming surrounded. It’s about a 45 minute ride over some rough terrain to reach the site and in the rainy season it is a river of mud, so it is well worth the price to rent a horse. Not to mention the entertainment of the negotiations.

 

My Trusty Steed

 

For those of you who don’t believe in miracles, pay close attention to what I am about to say. The church of Parícutin was buried right up to the altar…..where the 30 foot wall of lava stopped! I have sat on that 30 foot wall and looked across the short expanse of clear area to the altar, untouched by lava. Folks nowadays make pilgrimages to this altar to leave a little something and pray for a miracle for themselves or their families.

 

Altar Untouched by Lava

 

The top half of the altar is covered with vases and flowers and crucifixes, but the bottom half is what really touched me. It is full of everyday things, left by poor people hoping to be granted their own particular miracle. The assortment is amazing.

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Birthday Parícutin

Carnival In Mexico

 

Carnival is celebrated throughout the world during the week prior to Ash Wednesday and since Mexico is a largely Catholic country it’s a pretty big deal here. However, celebrations vary radically depending on your location. For example, Patzcuaro is a major destination for tourists wanting to experience Day of the Dead, but Carnival is almost completely overlooked there. For the last week my neighbourhood here in San Miguel has been alive with cohetes and noise makers, New Year’s Eve revisited. The cities with the largest and most elaborate celebrations are Vera Cruz and Mazatlan, but not to be outdone, San Miguel de Allende makes a pretty good effort to compete.

 

Mojigangas, Giant Paper Mache Figures

 

These celebrations are a festival of the libido meant to get all the debauchery out of people's systems before the abstinence of Lent begins. The word Carnival actually comes from Latin, meaning “to take away” or “goodbye to meat”, and many devout Catholics will refrain from eating meat for the upcoming 40 days of Lent.

The events usually begin with the Quema del Mal Humor or The Burning of Bad Humor which is the burning in effigy of an unpopular political figure, or in some places a Satanic figure. After this the King and Queen of Carnival are crowned, beginning a week long string of festivities.There is music, food, dancing and, of course, parades and fireworks. Mojigangas, huge paper mache figures, put in an appearance in many parades here, but none are quite as festive, and often risqué, as those used in the Carnival parades.

El Jardin, San Miguel’s main plaza, is alive with colour during this time. The vendors sell all the trappings of Carnival and the kids chase bubbles and strew colourful confetti among the benches and trees. Prior to Carnival the mercados fill with eggs, emptied of their gloppy innards and filled with confetti, and during Carnival Week children throughout the city lob these at each other, leaving a trail of confetti on their clothes, in their hair and on the streets.

 

 Bubbles in El Jardin

 

The celebrations culminate on the "Martes de Carnaval", or Mardi Gras, the French term meaning Fat Tuesday. One last blow-out party ending with the burning of another effigy, “Juan Carnaval”, which is representative of all the indulgence and carnal revelry of the past week. This act puts an end to the wantonness of Carnival and begins the abstinence of Lent. The following morning is Ash Wednesday, when the people of San Miguel will go to church and receive ashes, after which Lent will begin.

 

Dia De La Candelaria

 

On February second Christians all over the world celebrate Candlemas Day. Traditionally on this day, candles to be used in the church throughout  the coming year were brought into the church and a blessing was said over them by the priest. Thus the day became known as The Festival Day or “Mass” of the Candles.

Candlemas Day is observed by many different religious denominations and is known by several different names. A couple of the most common being, the Feast of the Purification of the Virgin, and the Meeting of the Lord. According to Jewish law it was necessary for a woman to bring her baby to the temple 40 days after the birth of the child. She would then undergo a purification ceremony. Since Jesus was born on December twenty fifth he would have been taken to the temple on February second. The picture below is a stained glass window at St. Michael’s Cathedral in Toronto showing the baby Jesus in the temple.

 

Photo by Wikipedia

 

This was all news to me, which is surprising considering my rather strict Anglican upbringing. The main significance that the second of February has always held for me is that it is Groundhog Day. It is the mid-way point between the winter solstice and the spring equinox and the legends surrounding it are many and varied throughout the world. Here in Mexico it is an interesting blend of the old and the new, of science, nature, legend and religion. Although Dia de la Candalaria is celebrated with religious ceremonies, parties, fireworks and cohetes, that is not the end of the affair. It goes on for a week.

One important tradition during this time involves the Niño Dios, a representation of the Christ child in the form of a doll. It is not uncommon for a family to own a Niño Dios, which they place in a nativity scene. On January sixth, Dia de Tres Reyes, or Three Kings Day the Niño Dios, along with all the other kids in the house, is brought gifts by the three magi.

On that evening there is usually a party during which the rosca de reyes, a ring of sweet bread is served. Somewhere hidden inside the bread is a figurine of the baby Jesus and the individual who finds this figurine is required to become the “Godparent” of the Niño Dios and is responsible for him until Dia de la Candelaria, when they will dress him in beautiful clothes and take him to the temple to be blessed. After this all the remnants of Christmas are put away until the next year and the “Godparent” serves atole and tamales to friends and family at a party that evening. Hence the fireworks and cohetes.

 

Parque Juárez

 

It is also the time of year to perform the blessings of the seeds and prepare the land for spring planting. In San Miguel the beautiful Parque Juárez is transformed into the biggest plant and flower sale that I have ever seen. Crowds stroll through the myriad of offerings, choosing what will go into their gardens this Spring. Young boys with carts or wheelbarrows weave in and out amid the throngs delivering plants from vendor to car. Whether you want fresh herbs for your kitchen garden, palms beside your pool or bromeliads for your forest hideaway you can find them at  Parque Juárez during  the week of Candelaria.

 

Heave Ho

 

It seems to me that holidays and celebrations take on a whole new meaning in Mexico. Maybe it’s the rich history and strong traditions that make the difference. Maybe it’s the outlook of the people here. Or maybe it’s just that Mexico sure knows how to party!

 

 

How Would You Like to Live at the Beach?

 

Ixtapa

 

When we lived in Patzcuaro we were only a 3 hour drive from Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. Consequently we used to spend a fair amount of time there. Friends of ours had a house in Corazon de Durazno, where we also used to live, as well as a lovely condo in Ixtapa. We would frequently spend several days together at the beach and our friends decided that they would like to have a house there.

The condo was sold and construction began on a beautiful house that the two of them designed themselves. The lot is right across the street from the Ixtapa Golf Course. It is surrounded by jungle and alive with the sounds of macaws, flamingos, grackles and chachalacas. Huge iguanas peer down from the branches of ancient parota  trees and occasionally go for a swim in the pool.

 

A Private Jungle Oasis

 

Zihuatanejo is only about a 10 minute drive from Ixtapa and one of our favorite haunts there is Pati’s Bar. Sitting under an umbrella with our toes in the sand we gorged ourselves on avocadoes stuffed with plump shrimp and fresh yellowfin tuna salad. Often, if we were still there late in the afternoon, we would avail ourselves of 2 for 1 tropical drinks and watch the sun set over Playa La Ropa.

 

Pati’s Bar, Zihuatanejo

 

Playa La Ropa

 

About 30 minutes before you arrive in Ixtapa you will pass the exit to Tronconus. The pristine beach and huge rolling waves there are popular with surfers from all over the world. It is also a popular breeding ground for sea turtles, as I mentioned in a previous post, http://www.rat-race-refugee.com/2012/09/mexico-and-turtle.html, in September of last year.

 

 

 

Unfortunately, right after the house was finished, circumstances beyond their control required our friends to leave Mexico and return to Hawaii. Their beautiful new home is now for sale at the incredible price of $199,000.00 US. You can view their website at the link below. If you are interested, you can contact them through their website, or me, by leaving a message at the end of the post.

 

http://ixtapa-house-for-sale.com/

Moctezuma’s Revenge

 

 

 

I have been a little under the weather lately which is why I haven’t posted for a while. I was the victim of Moctezuma’s Revenge, also known as TD, among other things. I am told that the cause of this infliction is usually bacterial enteropathogens. I have often been heard to say, cavalierly, that I am not affected by by such things and these words came back to bite me in the area in which I have been suffering.

I admit that I have occasionally had short bouts of intestinal problems since moving to Mexico, but as a rule they do not last more than 24 to 48 hours and have never been severe. However, over the last couple of weeks my situation worsened to the point where any food entering my body was immediately shown the back door and violently ejected. Although this is a very effective diet plan it is not one that I recommend.

Eventually I was forced to admit that I really did have a problem and that I needed to see a doctor. After the uncomfortable experience of submitting a stool sample for inspection I was given a prescription for antibiotics that can only be described as “horse pills”, as they were large enough to gag one. During the following week I vacillated in my opinion about which was worse, the sickness or the cure.

The instructions for taking the antibiotics suggested taking them after meals as nausea was a possibility on an empty stomach. Possibility? Really?  For the first couple of days food didn’t stay in my system long enough to act as a cushion so it was a toss-up as to which exit the food would take. The only thing that I could be assured of was that it would exit. Eventually, however, the antibiotics did kick in and I was once again able to retain my dinner with the only worry being the possibility of vomiting due to the nausea caused by the pills. Believe it or not, this was an improvement.

 

Emilio’s Enchiladas Placeras in Patzcuaro

 

Now having shared the embarrassing details of my recent illness with all of you, I should also say that one of my favorite things about living in Mexico is the food. So I am now on the horns of a dilemma. It is painfully clear to me now that I am not immune to the health risks of eating everything and anything that looks or smells interesting.

 

Alambres in Quirroga

 

I also don’t want to become paranoid and avoid everything that does not come from an upscale restaurant or my own kitchen.

 

Arrachera in Nurio,  Michoacán

 

I certainly haven’t finished exploring the culinary cornucopia that is Mexico and I don’t want to have that exploration tainted by fear of repercussions. I would love to be able to feel that since I enjoy the food here, and the experiences associated with it, so much that I could take the occasional bout of TD as an unavoidable side effect. However, I am loath to experience a reiteration of my recent intestinal distress.

 

 

Chilaquiles in Restaurante San Diego, Patzcuaro

 

In reality, the TD may not even have come from food. I could have handled something, money for instance, that had bacteria on it and then not used hand sanitizer before eating. I’ll never know. I will, in the future, be more careful about announcing my immunity to things (Murphy’s Law will get you every time!) and I just hope that my zest for new Mexican cuisine is not affected by my unfortunate experience.

 

Oh Yum!

It’s That Time Again

 

 

The New Year’s Resolution. I have mixed feelings about this. I used to make resolutions every year, somehow feeling it was the right thing to do, and that I was on the road to self-improvement. Each January I forgave myself for not achieving all my personal goals in the previous year and set out to do better in the following one.

In the 70’s I read Erica Jong, in the 80’s Wayne Dyer and in the 90’s Anthony Robbins. I focused each New Year on making the changes that would, I was sure, result in my becoming more successful in my personal and professional life. In retrospect I’m not sure I really had a clear idea as to what it was that I was aspiring. “To become more successful”. What does that really mean? It certainly means something different to me now than it did in 1970. It was different again in 1980 and had changed, yet again, in 1990.

I know from my years in the work force that it is imperative to set goals in order to stay focused. Structure is needed in the workplace, and to a certain extent in the home, particularly when you are juggling a family and a full-time job. Still my preoccupation with setting myself, often unrealistic, goals and resolutions really served only to set myself up for failure, the ultimate result of which was dissatisfaction with my performance and slowly ebbing confidence. Enter Wayne Dyer and Tony Robbins.

If one year one of my resolutions was to lose 25 pounds, and I somehow managed to accomplish it, the result was spending too much money on new clothes, prompting me to make a resolution the following year to make more money. It seems to me that I was just chasing my tail. For 3 decades I struggled to achieve that elusive “success” without really understanding what that meant to me.

Success, like everything else, is relative. In my youth I should have paid more attention to Albert Einstein than Tony Robbins. I no longer make resolutions. I left those behind when I ran away from home 7 years ago. I judge success in my life differently as well. I derive satisfaction from helping others, from living for today, as my Mexican friends have taught me, and from finding joy in the beauty and the people around me. I am happier now and no longer require resolutions to improve myself or my life.

I have learned a lot from Mexico and the wonderful people here. How do you feel about resolutions? I would welcome other ideas and opinions.