Inspiration

 

 

 

 

It is interesting to me how often we find inspiration in the most unlikely places. Yesterday I was in need of some inspiration and lo and behold it was offered to me on a silver platter. Well, not literally but it  felt very much that way.

I was having lunch with a couple of lady friends in a new restaurant, handily located two doors down from my where I have my Spanish class, at Juan’s Café. We had just ordered and were chatting while we waited for our lunch, when an elderly lady walked in to the restaurant. She didn’t stay, I guess she realized that it was new and just wanted to look around.

As I watched her walk in I experienced the strangest sensation. She didn’t exactly walk with ease, but neither did she use a cane or walker which is quite common here with all the uneven cobblestone streets and sidewalks. She was just relaxed and looking around. I really don’t think either of my companions even noticed her.

Suddenly I was overcome with emotion. I was very, VERY close to tears. I guess it was just the way that this person took for granted her ability to walk unassisted.

For those of you who may not know, I had a very serious accident three years ago. A ladder slid out from under me and I fell 7 meters to a tile covered concrete floor, on top of the ladder. I cracked my skull open and sort of exploded my left leg. Now since that time I have been somewhat in awe of the fact that if I had fallen on my head first instead of my leg, I would very likely be dead or at  least paralyzed.

The fact that I was so incredibly lucky has managed to sustain my positive outlook. After three years and seven operations people often say that they are amazed at how I manage to remain so upbeat, and usually I really do. Three months ago we bought a little ultrasound machine that my doctor recommended to stimulate bone growth, and I had some pretty high hopes that this would be the thing that finally made the difference in my recovery.

Two weeks ago I went to Queretaro to see my doctor and get new ex-rays. We all sat down to look at them with great anticipation. Only to discover that there was not a significant amount of new bone growth and also that there were 3 broken screws in my leg. I have to go back in four weeks for another ex-ray and if there are any more screws broken the doctor will have to go in again and replace them all……

At the time all I really thought was “Oh crap”, here we go again, and dollar signs were rolling around in my head at the thought of yet another surgery. I guess emotionally it took it’s toll though.

I imagine the sudden wave of emotion I experience yesterday was simply a moment of grief over the loss of my mobility and independence. Although I am usually a pretty positive person, I don’t think this was really abnormal, but what surprised me was that it stuck with me. All yesterday afternoon and evening that feeling kept returning to me. I even woke up with it this morning.

Then I decided that I would do some painting and while I was getting all my equipment together I came across some old photos that I had stuck in with my painting stuff. Not just sure why, but there they were.

The pictures were of Harold. Harold lived about a half block from where I worked in North Vancouver. It was a medium care facility for old folks, and actually my dad had lived there for a while too. One day he walked into my cosmetic department and said “Can you make me look like a Samurai?” He was 94 years old, hunched over with a skin condition, like dermatitis or something.

I laughed, and said that I wasn’t sure but I would be happy to try. The picture at the top of the post is the result. After that I saw Harold quite frequently. As it turned out he had always wanted to be an actor but first parents, and then wives and kids had gotten in the way of that dream. Then at 94 he decided that he could still have some fun. He loved to dress up and for every holiday he would go to a costume shop and chose something to wear at the old folks home. Then he came to me and told me what kind of makeup we would be doing that day. The folks at the home loved it, and loved Harold.

I also loved Harold. He was a great inspiration, not only to me, but to everyone he met. He was so happy and alive. He told me wonderful stories of his life and although he didn’t get to do what he really wanted, he made the absolute most out of what he had. It has been over eight years since I have seen Harold, and I suspect that he has gone on to amuse folks in whatever plane of existence comes after life.

Finding those pictures this morning put me back on the right path. It seems that Harold can still inspire me. I am leaving you with some photos of Harold’s great exploits.

 

Mae West

 

Irish milk maid

 

Cleopatra

 

Dance Hall girl?

 

Thank you Harold

Spring Is In The Air

 

 

In his recent post about Spring, housman takes a drive, fellow blogger Steve Cotton left us with a poem by A.E. Housman. Not wanting to be outdone, I offer the following prose.

Spring has sprung, the grass has riz, I wonder where the birdies is?

Yes, alright, I was outdone. And the birdies is in an enormous tree growing directly behind the wall encompassing our back yard. From their constant vocalizations I would venture a guess that there are about a hundred of them there at any given time. This is likely why Scooter, in the picture above, is positioned on that very wall.

Spring has come to the Bajio Mountains of Central Mexico and with Spring comes the rainy season. And with the rainy season come the mosquitos. It is still very early on in the rainy season, we have experienced only two rains and una gran tormenta, a fierce and wonderful thunder storm. The mosquitos, however are already firmly entrenched.

The doors and windows of our rented house here in San Miguel open outward, which makes having mosquito screens a little difficult. Up until now we have had to rely on “bug plugs”, the little gadgets that plug into a wall socket, heating up a small cardboard plaque inserted inside, and emitting noxious fumes, killing an insufficient number of mosquitos and leaving me wishing I had a gas mask.

Then Todd discovered the Raid Automatic Advanced Multi Insect Control System. Now that’s a mouthful! But it really works. Every seven minutes this little unobtrusive cylinder spritzes out an odorless spray that kills mosquitos and just about any other insect species within it’s range. Got cucarachas? It kills those too. So far I haven’t seen any scorpions here, although another blogger friend Barbara, Siege of Scorpions, has had issues in her house here in San Miguel. I’m not sure if it would be effective for scorpions or not, but it would be interesting to know if it is.

 

Raid Automatic Advanced Multi Insect Control System

 

Another thing that comes with the rainy season is an abundance of flowers. Our little back yard is transformed by an infusion of colour and sound.

 

 

 

The enormous tree is home to numerous Great Tailed Grackles with their loud, raucous calls. Also vying for position are the Inca Doves, Pigeons, Barn Swallows, House finches, Sparrows, and occasionally a Gold Fronted Woodpecker, voices all raised in a great cacophony.

 

 

Vermillion Flycatchers swoop by, hopefully eating mosquitos, while bees creep among the bougainvillea and Violet Crowned and Broad Billed Hummingbirds hover about the canna lilies.

 

 

It’s 4:26 PM and as I sit here I am noticing that the sky is clouding over. It’s that time. It is unlikely that it will actually rain again so soon, this early in the season, but it looks as though it could. I hear a little distant thunder. Not only does the precious little rain we get here in the desert revive our lawns and gardens, it reduces the dust in the air and leaves the incredible smell of damp earth that comes only in the Spring when the land has been so dry for so long.

 

 

Between rains the scent of Jasmine permeates the yard. The air is still and heavy. It definitely could rain.

 

 

Although the cacti don’t require as much rain as some of the other plants, they definitely respond to it with a riot of blooms.

 

 

 

It’s hot now, 31 degrees C. and actually humid, a rarity in this climate. I think Spring is my favorite time of year, a kind of renewal after so many long dry months. If the colour and life in my back yard today are any indication, I think that this year is going to be a very good one.

I Left My Heart In Michoacán

 

 

Mis amigas Patzcuarenses

 

Last Wednesday my good friend Alejandra was having lunch for some ladies at her beautiful home on Lake Zirahuén. I was invited, as this was the same group of women with whom I had had lunch every Tuesday in Patzcuaro for several years. Initially I thought, that’s kind of a long way to go for lunch, as Zirahuén is about three and a half to four hours from San Miguel, in the state of Michoacán.

Then Alejandra and her husband Enrique said that I could stay in their casita. Well that clinched it. I was off to Zirahuén for lunch. Alejandra and Enrique bought their little house about two years ago and since then have renovated the once sad little cabin-like abode into a thing of rare beauty.

 

Before

 

After

 

The house overlooks the lake. The WHOLE lake. The property is just outside the little pueblo of Copandaro and sits high on a hill with a breathtaking view of the lake and surrounding area. The pristine lake is usually clear blue, although it can change colour with the weather and it’s mood, sometimes appearing gray or even emerald green.

 

 

Lake Zirahuén, Michoacán

 

The town of  Zirahuén is in the Municipality of Santa Clara del Cobre, about 20 to 30 minutes by car from Patzcuaro, and is largely overlooked by tourists. It is quaint, rustic and home to about 2,500 people, most of whom have lived there all of their lives, as did their parents, grandparents and great-grandparents. Unlike most of the other small towns in the lake Patzcuaro area, Zirahuén did not develop a craft unique unto itself. They do make wooden toys, spoons, trays and colourful tablecloths, but most people consider the music of 20 plus bands that exist in the area to be their special craft.

The property called “El Alto Lucero”, The High Bright Star, was large enough that when Alejandra and Enrique were renovating their house, they decided to add a casita as well. It is separated from the main house by a high hedge offering complete privacy and a spectacular view. The front of the casita, like the main house, is all glass opening onto a lovely terrace above a small yard with a built-in brightly tiled barbecue.

 

 

Casita

 

Night-time on the Casita patio

 

As you can imagine from seeing the pictures, one day wasn’t enough, and at Alejandra’s kind offer I decided to stay another night. Although once I was at El Alto Lucero I didn’t really want to leave, we did do a little driving around the lake to the home of another friend, Debbie, who also lives in Zirahuén. Debbie made us a wonderful brunch and we all spent a very pleasant afternoon together catching up.

 

Ale, enjoying Debbie’s hospitality

 

I really am enjoying living in San Miguel, and I also still have a lot of travelling to do before I have seen all of Mexico, but I think a little piece of my heart will always be in Michoacán. The mountains and pine forests are very reminiscent of my youth in North Vancouver. Perhaps that has something to do with it, although I believe there are many reasons why Michoacán captured my heart.

 

A new addition to Copandaro

 

All of the house, casita and lake photos are compliments of Enrique and Alejandra, as I was having too much fun to take many pictures. The photo above is the only one that is mine and it’s blurry. In my defense, it was taken from the car and the burros were a long way away.

I am adding a link to the website for “El Alto Lucero", and anyone who would like a truly wonderful vacation in the casita, or is looking for a home to rent in the Zirahuen area should contact Alejandra or Enrique there.

 http://www.zirahuen-elaltolucero.com.

A Day In “El Campo”

 

I’ve been MIA for a while as far as my blog goes. Sometimes life just seems to get away from me. On Saturday afternoon though, I had a wonderful experience that I’d like to share. A new friend invited us to a “team sorting”. Basically cow-cutting with young bulls, it is a competition where everyone pays to enter and the winners get the spoils.

The event was held at a ranch near Atotonilco, a pueblo about 14 kilometers from San Miguel. Although I have been to San Miguel de Allende many times over the years and have now lived here for close to two years, I have never actually made it out to Atotonilco. Situated between San Miguel and Dolores Hidalgo, the tiny pueblo of Atotonilco is actually a pilgrimage site.

Atotonilco is a word coming from the Nahuatl  language meaning “in hot water”, and it refers to the many hot mineral springs in the area. One such spring is the spa, or “balneario”, La Gruta, which has been covered with an artificial cave and is situated at the entrance to the community of Atotonilco.

I had actually been to La Gruta, but not into the town itself, which has it’s own interesting story. Atotonilco has a very small population but a very large legacy and is formally known as the Santuario de Atotonilco, a World Heritage Site since 2008. The Sanctuary, officially called the “Santuario de Dios y de la Patria” (Sanctuary of God and Country), but is better known as the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco.

 

Exterior Façade of the Sanctuary

 

The Sanctuary complex was built in the 18th century by Father Luis Felipe Neri de Alfaro who was preaching at missions in Dorlores Hidalgo. As the story goes, during  a visit to Atotonilco, he was napping under a mesquite tree where the sanctuary is now located, and Jesus, carrying a cross and wearing a crown of thorns came to him in a dream and told him that it was he wished an edifice to be built here as a place for penance and prayer.

 

 

 

And what an edifice it was! Often called the “Sistine Chapel of Mexico”, the Mexican Baroque mural work created by Antonio Martinez de Pocasangre over a period of thirty years is an artistic marvel.

 

Sanctuary photographs by Wikipedia

 

The complex was built as a pilgrimage and procession site and is still used for this purpose today. The doctrines of Saint Ignatius of Loyola are clearly reflected in the architecture and design of the sanctuary as a place of penance. It all began in 1765 with Father Neri directing 25 people in the spiritual exercises of Ignatius of Loyola. This included mortification of the flesh through flagellation and fasting.

Today during Holy Week, approximately 5,000 people (about 4 times the population of Atotonilco) visit the “Casa de Ejercicios”  to perform these forms of penance while wearing crowns of thorns. This is only one of 33 weeks out of the year when visitors, mostly from central and northern Mexico, visit the sanctuary.

An image of Jesus, beaten and tied to a column, called  El Señor de la Columna, resides in the Sanctuary and every year since 1812 this icon is carried in a procession, 14 kilometers through the streets to San Miguel de Allende. Originally the image had been requested because of an epidemic that was plaguing San Miguel, so now each year on the Saturday prior to Holy Week, the statue makes it way to San Miguel where it remains until the following Thursday when it is returned to Atotonilco.

 

 

 

 

But enough of the history lesson and on to the “team sorting”. Chuck, the generous owner of the ranch had set up a covered area with tables and chairs for spectators right beside the corals. Needless to say it was a dusty day! Not to worry, there were beer and soft drinks available for 10 pesos and hard drinks for 20 pesos and then a little later in the competition pizza arrived from our favourite pizza establishment, Pizza Pig.

 

 

Whole families were there and it seemed that both men and women competed equally in the competition. Incredibly beautiful horses were everywhere, a real treat for a horsewoman such as myself. How I wished I was able to try the sorting! Maybe next year, if I am walking, perhaps I will be able to ride again.

 

 

The young man in the picture above was competing, and may actually have been on the winning team. I am assuming that he rode with his father and they worked together in perfect synchronization. The one in the photo below is a future competitor, but was certainly already at home in the saddle. Notice the spurs!

 

 

This was really the first community event that I had attended since moving to San Miguel. It was lovely how gringos and Mexicans mixed and had such fun together. That sort of thing was a much more common occurrence for us in Patzcuaro and I was pleased to be included here.

 

A cowgirl after my own heart!

 

Another young cowgirl in the making

 

Number 4 was my favourite

 

I wanted to take him home. Isn’t he pretty?

 

Soaking Up Some Culture & History

 

This past weekend Todd and I went to Guanajuato City. I am completely fascinated by the colonial cities of central Mexico, and this one was on our short list of places where we thought we might like to live when we moved here. The plan, at the time, was to spend a little time in Guanajuato, Zacatecas and Patzcuaro and then decide where we wanted to settle down. We came first to Patzcuaro, and as it turned out, never left. As a matter of fact, 4 days after we had rented a house in Corazon de Durazno we bought a lot.

I think Zacatecas, while beautiful, was a little off the beaten path for us, but every time I return to Guanajuato City, I sort of wonder what happened. I am certainly not lamenting my years spent in Patzcuaro, they were truly wonderful. Still, Guanajuato maintains a certain draw for me. We stayed in a hotel right on the Jardín de la Unión, the main plaza in El Centro.

 

 

Jardín de la Unión

 

Guanajuato City is incredibly picturesque, a valley surrounded by very steep hills, like a bowl whose sides are covered with brightly coloured buildings. Spectacular 17th, 18th and 19th century architecture abounds in the town’s historical center and students of architecture can be seen scurrying from place to place with long tubes full of plans. Being a university town, it has a wonderful feeling of youth and excitement.

 

 

University of Guanajuato

 

The University was originally a Jesuit school for children called the Hospice of the Holy Trinity, established in 1732. The founding was sponsored by Josefa Teresa de Busto y Moya, who was the sister of the Marquis of San Clemente, and was therefore able to obtain permission from the Spanish Crown to build the school.

In time this learning establishment began to offer high school level and professional courses, and underwent many changes, and many names, over the course of the next 200 years. By 1831, it had been named the College of the Immaculate Conception, and under government supervision, it was offering such programs as mining, architecture, painting and sculpture.

In 1867 yet another name change dubbed the university the National College of Guanajuato and over the next several years it developed a series of technical and research programs. Then in 1945 it was awarded university status and became the University of Guanajuato, and finally was granted autonomy by the state legislature in 1994. Now after 281 years and many contributions in the fields of art, science and technology it is one of the most respected learning facilities in the country.

Right next door to the university is the Temple of the Company of Jesus, also known as the Oratorio de San Felipe. Another striking example of Colonial architecture, it was built in 1746 by José Joaquín Sardaneta y Legazpi. It was finished in 1767, which unfortunately was the same year that the Jesuits were tossed out of New Spain, and the new church stood empty until 1804 when they were allowed to return. In the 19th century a giant cupola of three levels was added by architect Vicente Heredia. Inside the church 180 paintings by Miguel Cabrera, who also designed the main alter, were found and have been recently restored. Some of these can be viewed in various places around the church complex and a gallery area has been added to display the rest.

 

Oratorio de San Felipe

 

The Juarez Theater

 

Another of my favourite buildings is the Juarez Theater. Somehow I managed not to get a photo during my stay, so the one above is courtesy of Wikipedia. Guanajuato is famous for it’s Festival Cervantino, the Cervantes Festival and the Juarez Theater is one of the main venues for the many events associated with the celebration.

The Theater began construction in 1872 and finished in 1903. It opened with a performance of the opera Aida, and I am told that President Porfirio Diaz was in attendance. The architecture is Neoclassical in design and above the entryway nine sculptures of the Muses of Greek mythology crown the building.

 

 

 

I took the photo above across the street from the university. There are photo ops everywhere you turn in Guanajuato and although photography is not really my strong suit, I can appreciate how this city is a photographer’s dream.

This spot is not far from the Museo Casa Diego Rivera, The Diego Rivera Museum which, being a major fan, I just had to see. I crawled (literally) up all four and a half flights of stairs, dragging my walker and it was worth every step. Founded in 1975 the museum is in the house where Diego Rivera was born. The main floor is preserved as it was when Rivera was a child and the floors above contain an amazingly comprehensive collection of his work. Most of the paintings are from the collection of Marte R. Gomez and there are close to 100 of his original works.

What I found most interesting were some seldom seen pieces from his formative years, even pencil sketches. There was a complete cross section though, of nudes, landscapes, portraits (including self-portraits), still life and allegories. One room holds a full length mural with a numbered outline below so you can see exactly what, and who is in the painting.

 

 

 

 

Old or young, rich or poor, Guanajuato has something to offer everyone. In addition to the main campus the University of Guanajuato has nine others around the State. Today they are serving some 30,000 students and the influx of young people in the city gives it a wonderful atmosphere of fun and exuberance. As we strolled through the streets we got an upbeat and positive feeling that was incongruent with the shroud of history that also lays over the city.

Guanajuato City was the site of one of the first, and most famous battles of the War of Independence. The Alhóndiga de Granaditas, the grainery, is a very large building covering an entire city block. Now a museum, it was once the site of a fierce battle between the insurgents and the loyalist troops on September 28th 1810, a date observed to this day with celebrations and re-enactments.

Guanajuato played a huge role in the rich history of Mexico and today it is educating young people who will shape it’s future.

A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words

joy

/joi/
Noun

1. A feeling of great pleasure and happiness.
2. A thing that causes joy.

Synonyms
delight - gladness - pleasure - mirth – rejoicing
 
 

JOY

We have just returned from another week of camp with the girls of La Esperanza Orphanage. Every year, on the Monday following Easter Sunday 30 or so girls from Mexico City descend on the tiny pueblo of Umecuaro, Michoacán, México to enjoy 6 days in the countryside. For the last 5 years my husband Todd and I, and some of our friends, have joined them there. I know that I am often a little long-winded, ( a little? ) but today I am going to let my pictures do most of the talking. I am, as usual, somewhat overwhelmed by the end of camp week.

Our friend Connie generously hosts the camps at her property on the lake in Umecuaro. There are 2 large trojes, a cabin in the design of the P'urhépecha Indians of Michoacán, Connie’s lovely troje style home, a gazebo and plenty of space for tents, dogs, kids and horses. With the lake right across the street, the girls can go kayaking, swimming or fishing. There are areas for bike riding, and trails for hiking, horseback riding and nature walks abound.

JOY

The girls lead a very structured life at La Esperanza. Necessarily so. The 2 madres, nuns, who run the orphanage recently celebrated their 50th anniversary there. They are now in their 80’s and although they have huge hearts filled with love, they have to administrate an orphanage with with close to 40 girls, so structure is a must.

Madre Roble, Supplier of Joy

For this reason at Camp Connie we try to give the girls a holiday, as unstructured as possible. We have plenty of volunteers so that the girls can pretty much do what they want when they want to do it. Sometimes that just means hanging in a hammock, playing a game of cards or chatting on the lawn overlooking the lake.

The Ice Cream Man, Bringer of Joy

 

JOY

My Joy

Although we offer the kids hiking, biking, fishing, kayaking, swimming, horseback riding and craft making, we decided to do something more this year. I set up a makeshift makeup studio on the patio of the largest troje, Todd set up a mobile photo studio in a field behind the house and the Camp Connie Portrait Studio was born.

The Joy of Makeup

Karen

Yessi

Patty

Camp Connie

I experienced such joy this week that it would be impossible to put it into words. I think that the pictures probably express it more aptly than I am able.
If anyone would like to know more about Connie’s organization, One Pueblo, please look at the following link.
www.onepueblo.org